Jamta Sirmaur- Himachal Pradesh

I did not have any fancy hopes from this place- all I wanted was a weekend break. We booked our resort at Jamta just one day prior to our visit and packed our bags with a ‘it couldn’t be that bad’ attitude and started at noon from Gurgaon. Already very late and our tummies full, we decided not to halt unnecessarily before our destination. Psychological hunger pangs started hitting us as soon as we reached Murthal. “It wouldn’t take much time to gulp down a parantha at Sukhdev “; we said to each other almost at the same time and indulged in butter laden paranths. Now we were terribly late.

The sun had dimmed by the time we started from Murthal. We had never commuted on that route earlier so we were relying completely on GPS for directions. It was dark by the time we hit the Haryana- Himachal border area and the fun began now. The navigator lady sounded so confident about the numerous twists and turns she asked us to make that we blindly followed her…and soon we were driving through the narrow never-ending sugarcane fields in the pitch-black night.

It was the gloomiest night I had seen in years!  I must confess, I have never been as petrified on a drive as I was on that particular night. Nasty scenes from all the thriller movies started haunting me. I prayed for the fields to end soon and get out of there safely. Now the thing about fear is it makes us do silly things. I remember taking out my tiny artificial earrings and shoving them in the glovebox. I didn’t want my imaginary robbers to think of them as real! “It wouldn’t really help you know “, my partner said to me and a minute later we burst into a fit of laughter, puffing off those horrid thoughts.

To our relief, the fields ended soon after and we stopped by a police interceptor vehicle to ask for directions. The first thing they asked us was what possessed us to drive through those fields at that time of hour! The complete conversation between us and those kind policemen would make a nice post someday I think. Soon we were driving through the majestic Himalayas and we reached Jamta around midnight- Thanks to our GPS adventure!

We woke up to a beautiful morning in ‘The Sirmour Retreat Resort’ . As we sipped our morning tea overlooking the Himalayas from our balcony, we were pleased about our decision to be there. It was so peaceful just to sit there without any plans and simply admire nature .The cool breeze washed away all the stress. As always, it was a great experience to stroll around in the village and communicate with the local folks. The most beautiful part of the day however was the evening. It was an absolute bliss to just lie back and watch the sun disappear into the clouds.                                                

Places I visited:

Jaitak Fort: We reached this place after a short but stern trek in hopes of finding an actual fort , however, only ruins of the fort remain now. The battle between the British and the Gurkhas was fought at this fort. Two warrior statues on either side of the (must have been) entrance seem to guard the fort. The panoramic view from here made up for the hope I had from this place- The view was amazingly refreshing, a perfect picnic spot. There is nothing much to it otherwise.

Renuka Lake: It is a perfect one day outing place. A lake, a cute tiny zoo, temples and local shops – something for everyone! Kids would not want to come back from here, this is a family fun place. Renuka Lake is a charming lake with the biggest fish I have ever seen. A boat ride on the lake was super-duper entertaining and exhausting as we had to paddle the boat for good 40 minutes. We also went for the so called jungle safari and it was a pity to see poor animals in cage. All the animals specially the lions looked severely malnourished. We were lucky to be there at the time of the famous annual fair. The village market was flooded with people and the aura was very vibrant.

Suketi Fossil Park: A pathetic road of around 5ish km from the main road took us to the village where this park is located. I felt bad for the villagers. The museum displays many fossils found in the Shivalik range. There was no guide, this was a downer. More than the museum I enjoyed strolling in the jungle that envelopes the park, beautiful flora and fauna.

My Two Cents:

-          This is a general tip- Do NOT rely completely on the GPS for directions. The very minute you feel the route is tacky, revert to the desi navigation method- Roll down those windows and ask the next neat-looking bhaisaab for directions.

-          (Especially) if you are with kids, pack some food and water along when you visit the Jaitak Fort and enjoy a lovely picnic. There are no food options there.

Lansdowne Uttrakhand

I’m always hesitant in suggesting Lansdown to people for vacations. I want to keep it the way I remember it from my childhood days- discreet and peaceful. I don’t like even the idea of Lansdowne being crowded, selfish me!It is a small cantonment town in the Garhwal region of Uttrakhand and is well connected by road. Nearest railway station is Kotdwara (around 40ish km). Drive from Kotdwara to Lansdowne is exiting and enjoyable with some steep turns.

Do not expect fancy restaurants, lavish pubs or exotic shops - Lansdowne is solely for nature lovers. There is hardly anything else to do except admire nature and relax. It provides the rarest of all things a nature lover (like me) could ask for these days- Solitude! Lansdowne has a rustic charm to it- time seems to move slower here and that is the beauty of this place. My favorite thing here is to trek to the nearby villages and simply explore. The people are very simple, friendly and welcoming.

There is not much to do in Lansdowne itself, the so called tourist attractions like tip-and-top point, bhulla taal , Bheem pakoda etc within Lansdowne do not appease me. But there are some great places around Lansdowne/ Kotdwar that should not be missed:

1.       Tarkeshwar Mahadev Temple:  My favorite picnic spot ever. I have enjoyed numerous family picnics here since childhood and I am definitely partial to this place. It’s nostalgic and so much fun each time I visit. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is amidst spectacular landscape. Tall and strong Deodar trees seem to be guarding the serenity of this place, protecting it from the chaos of the outside world. The aura is truly mesmerizing.

2.       Durga Devi Temple: It is always refreshing to stop by at this temple just on the outskirts of Kotdwara. The temple is situated by the Khoh river. A quick trek down to the river to crawl inside the small cave is a lot of fun. If the river is not too fierce, it is great to just sit on the rocks with legs dangling in water. Elephants are in abundance here, it is not a good idea to draw their attention as it their terrain. From personal experience- if you are at the river and spot an elephant here, climb up to the road as fast as you can and leave. Well, that’s pretty much to it.

3.       Kanvashram: This place is like a rare hidden gem just a few km from Kotdwara. Kanvashram is an ancient place that holds historical and archaeological significance. It is believed that this ashram was rishi Kanva’s home who used to run a gurukul here. The ashram surrounded by beautiful forests has a tranquilizing aura. For the adventurous souls, there are some trekking options. Interestingly there is still a gurukul here that we can visit. I would recommend stopping at this place on your way to Kotdwara/Lansdowne and appreciate this place of antiquity.

4.       Siddhabali Temple: This is an ancient Hanuman temple situated by the Khoh river. I don’t really know how old the temple is but even the most aged people say that it has always been there. Numerous stairs lead up to the temple but the effort is worth every calorie. The temple premise is very clean and well maintained. Cool breeze, lush green hills and the lovely Khoh river slithering below- The view is hypnotizing.  It is very common to spot elephants drinking water at the river. My fondest memories from childhood include having a carefree time at the Sidhbali Bridge in the evenings and laughing at silly things with my cousins. How time flies!

 My 2 Cents:

1.       Lansdowne comes to a standstill at sunset. Do NOT visit if you tend to get bored after sometime looking at the mountains or you do not enjoy solitude because that’s the best (and only) thing this place offers.

2.       A comfortable pair of walking shoes is a must for all hill stations.

3.       It could be a tough terrain to drive for people who are not used to driving in the hills. Take it easy and do not overtake.

4.       If possible leave early for Tarkeshwar to get maximum time to enjoy there. Try chai and fan from the stall outside.

5.       Climbing up the Sidhbali temple stairs could be a tough task for elderly people.

6.   Do not forget to try the famous 'Chocolate mithai' at Kotdwar.

7. Respect Mother Nature. Do not litter. This is more of a request. 

Bharatpur, Rajasthan

I planned a trip to Bharatpur to visit the famous Keoladeo National park but found that there is a lot more to it. Bharatpur is a conveniently located city in the colorful state of Rajasthan and offers a variety of places to visit.

Placed I visited:

Keolado Ghana National Park: I had wanted to visit this world heritage site since a long time and I am so glad I finally made it. Spread over an area of 29 km, this beautiful bird sanctuary is considered to be a paradise for bird watchers and has a rich flora and fauna. I visited this place in December when hundreds of birds had flown here from all over the world. It was indeed a cherished experience to see so many rare birds at one place. There are many options to traverse through the park. We can hire a bicycle and ride ourselves or take the cycle rickshaws or simply walk around. The cycle rickshaw bird safari in this park remains one my most unique travel experiences. The guides are very knowledgeable and highly recommended. I wish I had more time to explore this park again on foot, but could spare just one visit.

Deeg Palace: Deeg is around 30ish km from the main Bharatpur city. The architecture is nice but to me this palace was all about fountains. The palace could be well named as the fountain palace of India as it has around 200 fountains. It was very interesting to understand the complex mechanism behind the functioning of these fountains. I was told that all these function properly and during Holi colors are added to the water so that the fountains sprinkle colored water. For over curious souls, I would recommend to read about the fountain works before visiting this temple. To be able to relate to that unique information itself would solve the (sole) purpose of your visit to this palace, like it did mine. Everything else in this palace (a so called garden and a small museum and shabby surroundings) was just OK for me. It lacked maintenance and washroom was pathetic.

Lohagarh Fort: This fort is a living fort and it must have been a beauty in its era but currently it is in a great need of maintenance. The moat that surrounds the fort is filthy and serves as a garbage dumping place. Strangely, I did not see a single signage. There is a palace, a museum, a place of worship, some houses etc. within the fort. The old buildings are really in bad shape. Overall, I would have been happy to miss it.

Keoladeo Temple: The Keolado National Park is named after this temple. The temple is situated inside the park and is dedicated to lord Shiva.

Laxman Temple:  This is a rare temple dedicated to Laxman. It is right in the middle of the market where I indulged in some local food.

My 2 Cents:

1.     Do opt for a guide at the park. They are very knowledgeable and would arrange for binoculars. I could not ride a bicycle or walk around due to time constraint. If you have time, try to do all these things. I am sure each experience would be unique.

2.     (Only during winters) Even if you’re not really into bird watching, do visit the park. The park would serve as a nice picnic spot (especially if you’re with kids). Arrange for mats , take your food along and just laze around in nature’s lap. I am sure it would be special. There is something for everyone in this park.

3.     Empty your bladder before visiting the Deeg Palace if possible. The washroom facility is horrible.

4.     Do indulge in street food. We had some yummy samosas from a shop nearby Laxman temple. Imartis looked tempting, was too full to try.

5.     A trip to Agra is pretty much doable in one day from Bharatpur. I visited Taj Mahal on New Year’s day and it is around 2 hour drive from Bharatpur.

Jodhpur

Jodhpur is one of the cities that pepped me up. Most of the city is colored blue and the bird's-eye view of the city is breathtaking. It is rightly called 'The Blue City' of India. It is a good place to buy Rajasthani handicrafts and a paradise for people with a sweet tooth. 

Places I visited:

Mehrangarh Fort:  Built at an elevated level from the city, the zigzag road to this fort is enjoyable. Mehrangarh fort is one of the finest forts in India and has something in store for everyone. Thick rugged walls surround the fort, guarding it from the outside world. There are many gates to the fort and the some of them proudly wear the marks of the various battles fought in the past. The fort is very clean and well managed. Our guide for the fort tour was a smart chap and did his job very well.There are several beautiful and amazingly decorated palaces in the fort with huge courtyards. The museum is definitely the best fort museum I’ve been to. It is stocked with the finest artifacts of the bygone era. The palanquins, armory, paintings etc. – everything is stunning. The souvenir shop offers a lot of variety to buy at an OK price. There is vintage car collection of the royal family. I did not try the zipline adventure activity at the fort but I’ve heard it is a lot of fun.

Mandore: It is an ancient town with several monuments of historic importance. My favorite of these were the ruins of Mandore Fort. Surprisingly, not many people visit these ruins. I did not enjoy other places much. Mandore gardens seem to be a favorite among the tourists .I noticed many people came here to feed the monkeys. There is a Ravana temple, a government museum, a temple of 33 crore Gods and a huge rock with carvings in the honor of the famous people.

Jaswant Thada: I am glad I visited this on my way back from Mehrangarh fort.

Jaswant Thada is a cenotaph located very near to Mehrangarh fort and it serves as a burial ground for the Marwar rulers. The architecture of this mausoleum is amazing. It was very inspirational to just sit there in peace and tranquility and feel the aura.

Umaid Bhawan Museum: A small part of the Umaid Bhawan Palace is converted to a small museum and is mainly dedicated to the history of the royal family of Jodhpur. Some vintage cars are displayed at the front of the museum. The hall displays some nice murals, paintings and armory.

My Two cents:

1.     Buy a souvenir from the Mehrangarh fort shop. They have a lot of variety, quality is good and prices are at par with the city shops. No need for bargaining is the biggest plus point.

2.     A guide or an audio guide is a must. There is always an interesting story associated with almost everything. Guides would spice up this experience as they narrate these stories with utmost excitement.

3.     Visit Jaswant Thada on your way back from Mehrangarh Fort. After a tiring visit to the fort, it’d be a refreshing experience.

4.     Like all major cities of Rajasthan, Jodhpur too has a decent transport system. If you’re on a budget trip like me, make use of the public transport.

Udaipur

The city of Udaipur was founded by Maharana Udai Singh jee in the 15^th century. Udaipur is adorned with beautiful lakes, white palaces and the majestic Aravali hills making it one of the most romantic cities of India. It is fondly known as ‘The City of Lakes’ or ‘The White City’.

Connectivity to Udaipur is good. It is connected to major cities via railways and is linked to many major cities via roads-National highways 8 and 76 would lead to Udaipur.

Places I visited:

1.       Lake Pichola:

Lake Pichola is an artificial lake and is one of the most picturesque lakes of Rajasthan. On one side of the lake are all the posh and expensive hotels and on the other adjacent side was our hotel along with many other budget hotelsJ. We had a breathtaking view of the lake from our hotel room. I could spend days at Lake Pichola without getting bored. Just gazing at the lake from the hotel room was a relaxing experience. The boat ride in the evening took about an hour and the sunset over the lake was tranquilizing. Bejeweled with marvelous structures like the Lake Palace, Jag Mandir Palace, Mohan Mandir etc., the lake rightly serves as the backbone of tourism in Udaipur.

Lake Palace: The Lake palace is a luxury hotel built on one of the islands on this lake.

Jag Mandir Palace: This is a well maintained palace with a beautiful garden at the backside. The view from the top is splendid-a treat for people fond of photography.

2.       Bagore ki Haveli:

This is a perfect place to enjoy the famous music and dance of Rajasthan. It is a huge haveli with numerous rooms. Mirror and colored glass used for interior is the specialty of its architecture. There are many items on display that give us a glimpse of the royal era. It was nice to just stroll around and have a peek at some of the rooms. The USP of this place is the cultural event that they host in the evening. It is a great experience to enjoy live dance and music performances by the local artists of Rajasthan. The ticket price is nominal.

3.       City Palace:

It is a gigantic palace and displays a mind blowing union of Rajasthani and Mughal architectural styles. The palace is built using marble and granite.The interiors display exquisite wall paintings, murals, glass work and everything royal. Many gateways lead to the palace.There are many parts of the palace like Badi Mahal, Amar Vilas, Krishna Vilas, Durbar Hall, Rang Bhawan etc, The palace museum possesses some very interesting exhibits. I felt we needed a lot more time to visit the city palace than we had.

4.       Chetak Smarak:

The story of Chetak, Maharana Pratap’s loyal horse fascinated me since childhood. A visit to Chetak smarak brought back all those stories of bravery we read at school. Chetak smarak is built in the memory of Chetak who died after helping Maharana Pratap escape the battleground of Haldighati. I really like the museum dedicated to the Haldighati battle. I would recommend just stopping by on the way to Haldighati.

5.        Fatehsagar Lake:

This lake is situated in the middle of the city and is surrounded by hills. The lake is well maintained and gets crowded in the evening when a lot of street food options are available

6.       Eklingji Temple:

This is an ancient temple dedicated to lord Shiva and has a great historical significance. Temple is surrounded by rock walls and the complex is made of marble and granite. Many other temples are situated within the temple complex. It is situated around 20ish km from Udaipur and I definitely did not find it worth the travel- Nothing extraordinary for me.

7.       Jagdish Temple:

This is situated right in the middle of the city and just behind the city palace. The marble carvings are beautiful.

8.       Vintage Collection of Classic Cars Museum:

I am not into cars and this museum is ONLY about cars. I am not sure why I visited this place :).This would be an interesting place for people who are fond of vintage cars. I would definitely skip this on my next visit to Udaipur.

     My two cents:

1.  You need a lot of time and stamina to enjoy a thorough tour of the city palace. For travelers with kids or elderly people it might be really exhausting.

2. For Bagore ki Haveli, be on time. Buy the camera ticket for a better seat.

3. A guide or an audio guide is a MUST for all the forts and palaces. There is always an interesting story associated with almost everything. Guides would spice up this experience as they narrate these stories with utmost excitement.

4. Do try the street food.

5. Buy a miniature painting as a souvenir. Spend some time at any miniature painting gallery or shop and try to understand about this unique art. It is really very interesting.

6. Read some history on your own about Haldighai battle and to get a better feel of Chetak Smarak and Haldighati. It would definitely be an add on to the experience.

Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer is named after Maharawal Jaisal Singh jee who founded this city. The word Jaisalmer means ‘The Hill Fort of Jaisal’.The city is fondly known as ‘The Golden City’ as almost everything in the city is made using yellow sand and yellow sandstone, surrounding it with a mesmerizing golden halo.

Places I visited:

      1. Jaisalmer Fort:

Jaisalmer is the only living fort in India and is situated on Meru hill. There is a nostalgic feel to the fort-hundreds of families have been living inside the fort since generations. The fort is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The main attractions inside the fort are the Royal palace i.e. Raj Mahal, various Jain temples and the Laxminath temple. The architecture is simply splendid.

2. Patwon Ki Haveli:

Patwon Ki Haveli is a cluster of 5 havelis located in a narrow lane quite near to the Patwa complex. These small havelis were built by Guman Chand Patwa, a rich merchant who built these havelis for his 5 sons. The Patwas were traders of gold and silver threads so these havelis are also known as ‘the mansion of brocade merchants’. The construction of these havelis spanned over 50 years. Each of these havelis is a magnificent display of craftsmanship. Like most other buildings of Jaisalmer, these havelis are also constructed using the yellow sandstone but the entrance is brown and the pillars are beautifully carved. The walls display some amazing mirror work and paintings.

3. Gadisagar Lake:

The Gadisagar Lake is located on the outskirts of the city and was built as a water reservoir in the 14^th century to conserve rain water. The lake is surrounded by some temples. The highlight for me was the entrance to the lake- ‘Tilon Ka Pol’ or the ‘Gate of Tillon’ named after its builder. Tillon ka Pol is a gateway made of yellow sandstone that arches across the road to the lake and is very creatively carved. The lake in itself wasn’t much appealing to me. I wish it were cleaner.

4. Desert Visit and Camping:

We reached the desert in the afternoon where extremely disciplined camels were waiting for us and they took us further into the desert. It was a 2 hour camel safari to the sand dunes, a little too much for our bottoms J . We were glad to avoid the overcrowded sam dunes and arrive at a quiet area. We walked up the highest dune and simply gazed at the sun displaying vivid colors as it set beautifully. There was total silence all around and it was mesmerizing. We then proceeded to our camp location and enjoyed some yummy Rajasthani food. It was a just magical to look at the star lit sky in complete wilderness, I sat there for hours trying to cherish the moment. Our camps were clean and cozy. We woke up early to a beautiful sunrise, strolled around for some time .After we had breakfast, the camels dropped us back to the jeep and we came back to the hotel. The desert camping was no doubt the most memorable experience of my Rajasthan trip.

My 2 Cents:

1. Like all major cities of Rajasthan, Jaisalmer too has a decent transport system. If you’re on a budget trip like me, make use of the public transport. Take a rickshaw for the narrow lanes if you don’t prefer to walk and buses or autos to other places. It’s much cheaper and so much cooler.

2. A guide or an audio guide is a MUST for all the forts and palaces. There is always an interesting story associated with almost everything. Guides would spice up this experience as they narrate these stories with utmost excitement.

3. Carry a sunscreen for the desert safari. Prefer open footwear.

4. Do take out some time to explore Kuldhara , an abandoned village in Jaisalmer district that has some interesting history and is thought to be haunted. I did not visit Kuldhara and I really regret it. Will have to plan another trip to visit this place.

5.  Buy an item made up of yellow sandstone as a souvenir. 

Bikaner

The city of Bikaner was founded by Rao Bika in the 14th century. A guide told us an interesting story about the name of the city. The land that Rao Bika selected to establish the city belonged to a person name Nera who was unwilling to give up his land at first but agreed afterwards with a condition that his name should be linked to the purpose for which he was giving up his land. Rao Bika was a man of his words and he happily added Nera’s name to his and thus the city was named Bikaner.

Connectivity to Bikaner is good. It is connected to major cities via railways and is liked to many major cities via roads-National highways 11, 15, and 89 would lead to Bikaner.

Places I visited:

1.     Karni Mata Temple/ Temple of Rats:

This ‘Temple of Rats’ is dedicated to Goddess Karni and is situated in a small town called Deshnoke around 30ish km from the city of Bikaner. We took a local bus from Bikaner to reach Deshnoke. The place is so unique that you have to be there to understand the actual feel of it. The temple is a home to thousands and thousands of rats that are worshipped there. This place remains my favorite and here is all I could gather about it.

2.      Junagarh Fort:

Unlike most forts that are built on hilltop, this fort is erected on plain land. The city of Bikaner flourishes around this fort. The original name of the fort was Chintamani. The fort was built by Rao Bika in the 14^th century who established the city of Bikaner. The Junagarh fort encapsulates within it palaces made of red sandstone and several Hindu and Jain temples. The décor reveals the royal Rajasthan culture and traditions. There is a fort museum that exhibits numerous texts, royal portraits, miniature paintings, jewelry, costumes etc. All these exhibits spoke volumes about the glorious past of Bikaner.

After the tiring tour we relaxed and ate at the Gallops restaurant just across the fort. The food was really good and service was prompt. Toilet was very clean and that was the best part for meJ

3.      Lalgarh Palace:

The Lalgarh Palace was built for Maharaja Ganga Singh and was named by him in the memory of his father, Maharaja Lal Singh. The palace is a beautiful display of combined architectural styles. This huge palace comprises of a museum (Sri Sadul Museum), an area that serves as the private house of the royal family of Bikaner and 2 hotels – The Lalgarh Palace Hotel and The Laxmi Niwas Palace.

The Lalgarh Palace hotel is a lavish heritage hotel that is owned and run by the Maharaja Ganga Singh Ji Trust. The Laxmi Niwas Palace is a luxury hotel- Of course, duh J

4.      Rampuria Havelis:

The Rampuria Havelis are my star attraction in Bikaner. These are a cluster of Havelis built adjacent to each other and are a sight to behold. These havelis were built by Balujee Chalva to serve as the residence for the Rampuria family. These are made of red stone called the dulmera stone. The stones are carved with beautiful images of nature in golden color and the wooden carvings are mesmerizing. The striking factor of these havelis is that each haveli has a unique pattern.

5.      Shri Laxminath Temple and Jain Temple Bhandasar:

Both these temples are located adjacent to each other and are located right amidst the hustle and bustle of the city. Sri Laxminath temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu along with other deities. Jain temple is a small temple with some mind blowing pillar carvings. The roof top view of Bikaner from this temple is awesome. Photography is prohibited in both these temples.

6.      Camel Research Institute:

This is a one of its kind farm. It is a government institute dedicated to the research on camels. It is located around 10 km from the main city. Baby camels were so much fun to watch and so was the sight when camels return in the evening from the desert. Had camel milk kulfi here.

7.      Gajner Lake:

The lake is around 30 km from the city and is a part of the Gajner wildlife sanctuary. We were told that this area served as a hunting ground for the maharaja in former times. The Gajner Palace restaurant is just on the lake. Did not eat anything there- it wasn’t a very well maintained lake. I wish I had time to visit the sanctuary.

8.      Rendezvous Restaurant:

I went to this restaurant as it was highly recommended on the Internet and by some traveler friends. My experience was BAD. Everything sucked. From the waiters who did not bother to attend to fellow citizens to the pathetically slow service to even more pathetic cold food. Everything sucked. Trust me, I’m a hopelessly optimistic person- something has to be more than extremely bad (beyond repair I mean) to displease me-well, this restaurant did displease me. This was an utter wastage of my time and money and patience. The only relief I felt after visiting this restaurant was that I did not spend a single rupee on the travel as it was just across my hotel. Something positive there J

My two cents:

1.      DO NOT SKIP the Rat Temple. I repeat. DO NOT SKIP the Rat Temple. There is no such place anywhere else. You can do it.

2.      Do not take off your socks (or do carry a pair you won’t mind disposing off) before entering the rat temple – there’s a lot of rat poop all around. 

3.      Do not bother to hire a cab for the rat temple. There are many local/public buses in every 5 minutes from Bikaner city and they charge around 30 INR. And it’s so much fun to travel with all the local folks.

4.      Like all major cities of Rajasthan, Bikaner too has a decent transport system. If you’re on a budget trip like me, make use of the public transport. Take a rickshaw for the narrow lanes if you don’t prefer to walk and buses or autos to other places. It’s much cheaper and so much cooler.

5.      A guide or an audio guide is a MUST for all the forts and palaces.There is always an interesting story associated with almost everything. Guides would spice up this experience as they narrate these stories with utmost excitement J

6.      Do not miss to taste the Bikaneri bhujia

7.      Do try the street food. Bikaner is famous for sweets and snacks.

The Rat Temple - Deshnoke

Rats were the reason why I planned a trip to Rajashthan. It so happened that one day a friend of mine told me about this unique ‘Rat Temple’ in Rajasthan.  It sounded so unusual! I must visit this place, I said to myself. How would it feel to be in a place filled with thousands and thousands of rats? Would I be able to do it?  I had to find out - Soon after in winters that year, I set out on my (low-budget) Rajasthan trip and Bikaner was the starting point.

Karni Mata Mandir or ‘Temple of Rats’ is dedicated to Goddess Karni and is situated in a small town called Deshnoke around 30ish km from the city of Bikaner. We took a local bus from Bikaner city to reach Deshnoke. The bus ride to the temple itself was great. It was so much fun and informative to interact with the local folks- we thoroughly enjoyed it.  A small walk from the main road (where the bus dropped us) led us to the temple. 

The front of the temple building is adorned with white marble- two lion statues on both sides of the entrance seem to be guarding the temple. The doors are made of silver with some incredible carvings. Across the entrance there are more silver doors portraying different images of the Goddess. My curiosity increased to an ecstatic level as I walked inside. 

‘Oh My God!’ I kept repeating as I entered the temple. Rats EVERYWHERE as in literally everywhere. It was the most unique place I ever visited. I was thrilled. The scene inside the temple was bizarre .You need a strong heart to spend some time in there because like all temples, we need to enter barefoot. Rats in the temple are revered as holy and are fed by the worshipers. Had I not seen myself, I wouldn’t have believed that rats could be as healthy as the rats of this temple- no wonder they party all the time! Sensing my fear, one of the priests told us that there has never been a single incident of rat bite or plague in that area. He also told us that if accidentally one kills a rat, he has to offer a rat made of gold or silver to the Goddess J .It was so cool to just observe an army of rats having milk out of a big round container or greedily nipping at the prasad scattered on the floor or lazily basking in the net on the ceiling. 

I spent hours at the temple examining each and every corner. Where else other than India would you find a sight more inexplicable than this? I was continuously smiling- It was one of those ‘YESSSS’ moments for me- I did what I wanted to do and I overcame the fear of rats:) .No doubt- this would always remain one of the most distinctive places I’ve been to. Whenever I’d see a rat in future, I’d always remember this place. Happily I bid farewell to my rodent friends- we’ll meet again I promised them.

My 2 cents on this:

1.   DO NOT SKIP the Rat Temple. I repeat. DO NOT SKIP the Rat Temple. There is no such place anywhere else. To all the musophobics out there- You can do it!

2. Do not take off your socks (or do carry a pair you won’t mind disposing off) before entering the rat temple – there’s a lot of rat poop all around. 

3.Do not bother to hire a cab for the rat temple. There are many local/public buses in every 5 minutes from Bikaner city and they charge around 30 INR plus it’s so much fun to travel with all the local folks.